Istanbul’s May Day Protests Really Quite Boring

CITY JOURNAL
MAY 3, 2009

If reading the news prompts you to suspect that the apocalypse is at hand, keep in mind that good news doesn’t sell and that journalists need to make a living. Editors prefer the headline PROTESTS MARRED BY VIOLENCE to the headline PROTESTS REALLY QUITE BORING. Sometimes, however, a boring protest is an important story. Istanbul’s May Day celebrations were generally peaceful and cheerful this year—for the first time since 1977, when 37 people were shot or trampled to death in Taksim Square, the city’s busy consumer center, helping pave the way for the 1980 military overthrow of Turkey’s civilian government. Nonetheless, if you read the news reports, you would have concluded that this year, too, Istanbul’s streets ran red with blood in an orgy of left-wing agitation and police brutality.

Continue reading Istanbul’s May Day Protests Really Quite Boring

1 Million Dead in 30 Seconds

In an increasingly urbanized world, earthquakes threaten unprepared cities with mass destruction.

CITY JOURNAL
Summer 2011

Seismic risk mitigation is the greatest urban policy challenge that the world confronts today. If you consider that too strong a claim, try to imagine another way in which bad urban policy could kill a million people in 30 seconds. Yet the politics of earthquakes are rarely discussed, and when discussed, widely misunderstood.

Continue reading 1 Million Dead in 30 Seconds

The View From Abroad

What it was like to be an American in France in the aftermath of 9/11

CITY JOURNAL

9 September 2011

I was in Paris, alone. My father was in Washington, D.C., with his parents. After seeing the images on television, my grandfather, already ill, collapsed. My memories of September 11 are bound up inextricably with my grandfather’s death.

My grandparents were musicians, refugees from the Nazis. They fled to Paris from their native Leipzig in 1933. From my grandfather’s memoirs:

Continue reading The View From Abroad

EVERYBODY KNOWS, BUT NOBODY KNOWS, PART II

CONTINUED FROM PART I

Although many note the explosion of corruption during the Özal years, the mentality that led to this state of affairs can be traced back to the Ottoman Empire. Bribery was not, of course, a uniquely Ottoman tradition, and in fact the early Ottoman sultans were known for their intolerance of corruption. But the later ones were not. This is chronicled by Ottoman historian Halil İnalcık in An Economic and Social History of the Ottoman Empire:

Continue reading EVERYBODY KNOWS, BUT NOBODY KNOWS, PART II

Turkey’s YouTube Ban Is Cause For Concern

RADIO FREE EUROPE
July 08, 2009

Very few people in Turkey are exercised by the YouTube blackout, now in its second year. Despite the ban, the video-sharing site is believed to be the ninth most popular site in Turkey. Almost every Internet user — from Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan to the humblest teenage porn connoisseur — knows how to circumvent it with proxy browsers. “I get in,” Erdogan told reporters in November, 2008. “You can do so as well.”

Continue reading Turkey’s YouTube Ban Is Cause For Concern

Make Way For the New Europeans

Washington Post
Sunday, August 9, 2009
REFLECTIONS ON THE REVOLUTION IN EUROPE

Immigration, Islam, and the West

By Christopher Caldwell

Doubleday. 422 pp. $30

“Reflections on the Revolution in Europe” — an allusion to Burke — is the latest in a series of pessimistic books, my own included, treating the conflict between post-Christian Europe and a resurgent Islam. Christopher Caldwell, an editor of the Weekly Standard and contributor to the Financial Times, makes arguments that have been made elsewhere: Mass immigration has changed Europe’s demography and is rapidly changing its culture. Many immigrants to Europe have failed to assimilate; many retain or have developed an Islamic identity antithetical to liberal European values.

Continue reading Make Way For the New Europeans

Subtergenekon and Other Crimes

In Turkey, alleged terrorism requires a brand-new vocabulary.

CITY JOURNAL
3 January 2012

George Orwell’s greatest act of genius was the invention of Newspeak, the official language of Oceania, devised to meet the ideological needs of “Ingsoc,” or English Socialism. Explaining the nature of a mass trial in Turkey likewise requires the construction of a language all its own.

Continue reading Subtergenekon and Other Crimes

Supping Full with Horrors: A social evening with Turkish outcasts

CITY JOURNAL
April 23, 2012

I came back late at night from the Distinguished Physician’s special dinner party for minorities, Leftists, and persecuted journalists. His villa in Istanbul overlooks the once-picturesque cove of Tarabya on the European shore of the Bosphorus. It is still picturesque, if you look only to your right. Harold Nicolson wrote of this view:

“To the south, fringing the soft lip of the Marmora, another ruin; the frail façade of a palace on the shore. Three marble arches opening to the sea: the carved brackets of a fallen balcony, the waves below splashing on heavy capitals half-buried in the sand.

Continue reading Supping Full with Horrors: A social evening with Turkish outcasts

Davos on Tour in Istanbul

THE NATIONAL INTEREST
June 8, 2012

The arrival of the World Economic Forum in Istanbul this week was overshadowed in the Turkish media by the arrival of Madonna and her entourage, although there was a symmetry in events—massive security, caravans of expensive cars with tinted windows, snarled traffic and cab drivers cursing them all. Tagging behind the Material Girl was her twenty-four-year-old lover, Brahim Zaibat; tagging behind Turkey’s mercurial prime minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan was Palestinian Authority president Mahmoud Abbas. In both cases, the pair looked every inch the happy couple.

Continue reading Davos on Tour in Istanbul

Turkey’s Sex, Lies and Videotapes

Gatestone Institute
June 26, 2012

TURKEY’S SUPREME COURT PUTS BLACKMAILERS IN AWKWARD POSITION

The news from Turkey, journalists here always complain, comes so hard and fast that they just can’t keep up with it. The Supreme Court obviously decided to take pity on them last week by declaring war on porn. Now, they didn’t criminalize all porn—let’s not exaggerate here—but the Supreme Court of Appeals ruled that anyone in possession of videos depicting oral or anal sex may be sentenced to prison.

Continue reading Turkey’s Sex, Lies and Videotapes

Novelist, essayist, journalist, historian, travel writer, biographer, critic